“Va piano” in Italian literally means “it goes slow.” That’s not how it feels on a Tuesday lunch time at one o’clock. My colleague, house mate and all around best buddy Cat has been trying to persuade me to go to Vapiano for months and today is my first experience. The place is quite literally heaving with people; people queuing, people eating, people talking, people laughing, people drinking, people having… well… a very good time it would seem.
The set up is very simple; you pick what you want off the menu and the chefs prepare it in front of you. I am immediately struck by how satisfying it is to smell the wonderful aroma of garlic and onions cooking in front of me, to hear the crackle of oil and watch as the chefs toss ingredients with practised skill. On recommendation from Cat, I order the arrabiata with penne pasta. They ask me how spicy I would like it. I say very. Do I want lots of garlic? Yes. Pasta al dente? Absolutely.
This involvement with the food process is a clever touch; it gives the impression that you’re receiving bespoke whilst only paying pret-a-porter prices; a typical meal costs between £5.85 and £8.85. And importantly, this works in Vapiano’s favour by cutting down on their service costs. When you’re telling the chef exactly what you want, some poor sod of a waiter doesn’t have to hover over the table while Mavis from accounts wonders whether she’ll have the carbonara or just a salad.
And what’s more, the service is unbelievably quick; my meal is cooked and ready in about five minutes. This efficiency stereotypically comes from Germany but has proved hugely popular in the my-way-or-the-highway food service industry in the US.
The décor, seating and layout is reminiscent of All Bar One, a chain squarely aimed at the 25-45 year old woman and designed to make her feel comfortable either alone or in small groups. Vapiano’s customer base is reportedly (according to their own website) 60% female.
The food itself is great; simple, satisfying and perfect for refortifying a worker bee in the middle of the day or as an evening meal before going out on the town. They provide pizza, pastas, salads and soups, ranging from basic fare like the insalata caprese (mozzarella, tomatoes and fresh basil salad), to slightly more exotic dishes like the granchi de fiume (capelli d’angelo served with crayfish, lobster sauce, argula and artichokes).
The desert and drinks menu also look appetising, offering delicacies such as crema di fragola (mascarpone cream with fresh strawberries), tiramisu della casa and the obligatory death by chocolate. Since it’s a work day, I resist from ordering a cocktail despite temptation, but I might return at the end of the day to sample the Lemon Drop martini or the Vapiano martini (three olives vodka, Chambord raspberry liquer with a touch of pineapple juice, decorated with a lime.) Yum.
My conclusion? Vapiano is on Great Portland Street, a spit away from Oxford Circus tube - if you’re a fan of fast, fresh and above all simply good food, take the time to visit. But, for the love of god, just don’t go at one o’clock on a week day lunch time.
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